Happy trails

It's been a while. The same thought that must run through a Bangkok taxi driver's head when he can hit the accelerator again for a couple of meters before coming to a complete standstill again for a couple of minutes. The curse of every big city, enormous traffic jams. One reason for not buying a car in Bangkok in my opinion. It is like parking your vehicle in the middle of the street and never getting a ticket for doing so. And still I wonder why so many people take their car to the heart of Bangkok. There is a multitude of taxis available too. Now, you could wonder, why take a taxi when you are always stuck anyway. In the afternoon heat it is wiser to hail a taxi than to walk a couple of kilometers. I have been there and walking doesn't seem such a healthy option anymore. Taxis are cheap and fitted with air conditioning. So it doesn't matter if you get stuck, you are surrounded by a cool breeze. But after some pondering I found the time had come to provide myself with some personal wheels. I wasn't going to be stuck in traffic anymore. I bought a motorbike. Now I was able to weave through traffic without using my brakes too much. Some people called me completely crazy, others nominated me as the next Bangkok hero. In the beginning I was careful, but that was actually not that good of an idea. When there are no traffic jams, cars just soar around you and traffic rules seem non-existent. My rule of thumb is to stick to the most left side of the road and only swerve when necessary. Turn signals seem to come as an option and were replaced by car horns. You never know what will happen in the next ten meters and the next ten after that.

Having the freedom to roam around on two wheels, it was time to venture outside the big city. Many people warned me about the dangers that lay outside the concrete jungle, but I was ready for a small adventure. The first thing you notice outside this metropolis is that people actually do know how to drive a car. Apparently it is just the hustle and bustle of Bangkok that makes them go mad in their Faraday's cages. People drive gentle and even let you pass, there are turn signals visible and no car horns to be heard. Riding a motorbike is a relaxing activity. From town to town, stopping along the way for a picture or a drink, that's what I was hoping for and that's what I got. But after a week I had enough. It was getting too quiet. I was missing something and I knew what it was. So without a doubt I hopped on my faithful steed and went towards the congested mogul. Once I entered the belly of the beast I found the noises and the smells again I was looking for. Again weaving through traffic jams I made way for my apartment. I survived a week on the countryside, notwithstanding all the warnings I received. I still don't know what all the fuss was about. I had a nice time and enjoyed it. And that is what I recommend to anyone reading this, have a nice time and enjoy.

Enjoy.

Relocation

Here it is, the new entry you have all been waiting for so eagerly. Or maybe not, just wondering what I am up to or if I am even still alive. Well, I am. The reason it took me a while to pick this up has to do with some changes in my life. I relocated. Yes, at the moment of writing this I am not in my beloved Thailand, but in the birthplace of Gaelic culture, Ireland. Since this is not my home country, I am still a foreigner, hence you can still call me a farang. Happy, yes I am, I have a job that earns me some money. So I didn't have to find a new pseudonym to continue this rant.
Living in Thailand is really nice, but living costs money. Since the Thai law doesn't allow me to exercise whatever job I want, I needed to return to Europe to gather some finances. Don't worry if you are looking forward to stories about the Land of Smiles, I will be back there in October.
Not a lot is happening in Ireland since I am just here to work and not really exploring the lay of the land.
I can tell you the Irish are a happy bunch, always in for a cheer and a laugh.
A lot of farang I met in the Thai capital always tell me about the culture shock when returning to their respective homes. Well, I guess those people are just easily shocked. It's all a matter of compatibility. Seen that my ancestors have always been overrun by other tribes, my compatriots and I have developped the ability to adapt quickly to new situations.
The only culture shock to me was that I had to walk 45 minutes to find one ATM. In Bangkok you walk one minute to find 45 ATMs.
Another thing is the price of food. Going to the supermarket or eating out, be prepared to bring your wallet. Ok, I admit, being used to Thai prices, everything seems expensive, but I can tell you, this is even higher than European prices. Being isolated on an island drives the prices up I guess. But all the other goods on the market, from clothing to electronics, seem reasonably priced, so there is no real logic. Probably there is an explanation to this, but I won't be hanging around long enough to find out.

I have no idea when my next entry will appear, but as stated in my very first write-up, this is a very irregular blog, don't take it for granted. You won't be able to enjoy it every Sunday morning along your nice cup of coffee. It will come at you when you least expect it. Expect the unexpexted.

Expect it.

Status update

The Lord Buddha teaches us desire leads to suffering. And that is what we have seen in Bangkok the past couple of days. One group's desire has led to another group's suffering. But that is not the way it should be interpreted. It should be your own desire that leads to your own suffering. You can sit outside in a busy junction under the scorching sun and suffer for your self-proclaimed good cause all you want, as long as you don't hurt the people around you. But as soon as you monopolise parts of a concrete mogul, other people start to suffer. I suggest to all those covered in red cloth to visit some temples where Hell is depicted. The punishments in the afterlife for making other people suffer are not ones one could easily endure.

One thing that was not mentioned in the written press about the total destruction of Bangkok was the love of Thai people for their beautiful city. Journalists wrote about how they were destroying their own beautiful town. This could be far less from the truth. The majority of the protesters came down from other parts of the country to join the rallies. So they couldn't care less about burning down Thailand's capital. When everything comes to an end they return to their peaceful villages where nothing was, is or will be burning. They want to send a signal, they are misunderstood. They probably misunderstood their orders while they were torching the place down.

In the rest of the world elected governments are allowed to finish their term. Even though some people don't agree with the elected few, they give them a hard time and wait for the next elections. And if all is well, they will have their victory at that time.

Thailand has an ancient culture, but for some part it is still living according to that ancient culture. If you don't like the people in power, overthrow them by any means necessary. There are so many other ways of solving this problem.

The rioters have cooled off, everything is calm and the people of Bangkok have started a big clean up. Now the powers that be should start with a clean out. And don't forget to look in the mirror once in a while.

Let this beautiful country return to the peaceful haven it once was. Let the people live their joyous lives. Let all the violence come to an end.

The country will prosper and flourish and everybody will benefit from this.

Everybody will.

A resume

It has been a year since I set out on my great voyage and landed in this beautiful country. As they say, time flies when you're enjoying yourself and I have to admit, this year went by so fast, I don't know how I realised to do all the things I did. I thought it might be a nice moment to summarise my year here, make a small resume. Many things happened because I try to maintain a positive attitude and say yes to many proposals. Life is too short to say no to everything and it won't get you anywhere. If you want to gain some life experience, go outside and say yes. I went many miles and they left some impressions on me.

I got drinks from the richest people in Bangkok and bought drinks for the poorest. I had my own opinions and was the subject of several opinions. I taught new matter and learned a lot myself. I woke up in five-star hotel rooms which I didn't have to pay and opened my eyes in the slums of this great city. I met interesting people and people who wished they hadn't met me. I made great friendships and got verbally abused. I became a racist and embraced other cultures. I almost died and found a new life. I led a life covered in darkness and found a way to enlightenment. I could go on and on about all my new experiences, but this would get to monotonous and you would stop reading. And as all of you know, I try to keep this interesting, although a little bit. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, just beware where you express them. The only lesson I want to teach you today is to go out and live a little. You only get one chance at life, make it count.

One chance.

Hot and cold

This week the hot season started. Because of the warm winter there is not a lot of difference, so it makes the transition easier. Thailand has three seasons, rain, cool and hot. I myself don't really understand why there are three, because they all feel the same. Except it rains more in the raining season. The meteorological department predicts 43° C for April, but critics don't agree. And I agree, how can they already predict the temperature for next month. Try getting it right for next week first.

To my great joy I discovered some new nutritious delights. These are "koochai" and "kai nokata". The transliteration might not be correct, but the street vendors understand it and that is what matters.

Koochai is like the Thai version of falafel. Twenty baht will buy you a bag enough to fill your stomach. The complementary soy sauce might be useful for an otherwise dry experience.

Kai nokata is more like a dessert, but seen that Thai people eat all day long, the meaning of starter or dessert gets lost. It is something you can find at fun fairs in my home country. Deep-fried dough balls with or without powder sugar. I remember being a kid we always had to wait for the fun fair to come to town to eat this little drops of heaven. Here they are available everywhere and every day. Prices vary to the quantity purchased.

Still about food, but on another note, what's the deal with timing in restaurants.

Many times I get my starter at the same time as my main course, or sometimes even halfway through the main dish. The whole meaning of a starter is to start your eating experience. So in my opinion some restaurants should have a good look at "Restaurants for Dummies". This states the common order of starter - main course - dessert. One time I actually got my starter after completely finishing my meal. Without complaining I finished it and paid the bill. It's too late anyway. Please note this does not happen everywhere. And I don't always take a starter, so I don't know how it would be in those cases in some places. Eating out is always a little adventure and that's what keeps it interesting.

Keeps it interesting.

Passed again

On this day, 2500 years ago, the Lord Buddha spoke to 1250 of his disciples. They came from all over the country without an invitation and Buddha had no intentions of preaching, so it was just a cosy chit-chat in the grass. That day is still a holiday which we call Macha Bucha Day.

Not a lot happens actually. In the evening people go to the temple and walk around the temple three times holding a flower, a candle and some incense. Three times for the three jewels of Buddhism, the Buddha, the Dharma and the Sangha.

This month didn't see a lot of blogging, because not a lot happened. February had advanced two weeks already when we saw what was supposed to be a spectacular Chinese new year. This was celebrated mostly in the parts of Bangkok where a lot of Chinese descendants live. The most obvious one being Chinatown. I stayed in the Thai parts and there were some celebrations to be seen, but very minor. The typical Chinese dragon dancing and prancing about and a million firecrackers being lit. As long as it makes a lot of noise, Thai people are happy. The main change this year was that a lot of people refrained from wearing the traditional red attire and changed to pink. The reason for this was to wish the beloved king of Thailand better health, pink being his second color, after yellow. Another unofficial reason was not to put too much red out in the streets. Who would have thought that a political color could have so much influence on a tradition that has been going on for thousands and thousands of years.

At the end of the month there was the event everybody had anxiously been waiting for. The court's decision whether or not to seize the assets of Mr. Thaksin. After about six hours of reading the verdict, the final decision was to seize only 60% of the assets, because that was the amount ill-gotten when he had taken the office of Prime Minister in 2001. This may sound like a lot of money, but I'll give you the numbers. They seized 46 billion baht of a total of 76 billion baht. So he's got some change left. And of course this is the money he had in Thailand, if you catch my drift.

As you can see, not a lot happened, but of course February is also the shortest month of the year. Let's hope March brings some more activities and adventures.

Let's hope.

Island in the sun

Just 30 minutes north of Bangkok you can find a small island called Ko Kret. Yes, that's right, north of Bangkok. In the middle of Chao Praya river there is a small Mon inhabited islet. Everything out of the ordinary is interesting to visit, so some research on the ever expanding world wide web taught me me more about this and I was ready to explore. The starting point for many a day trip is Victory Monument (Thai: Anoo Sawelee) where loads of busses and minivans take you to your destination. The explanation found on the internet was very clear, take blue bus nr. 166 all the way to the terminal station of Pakkret. 30 minutes and 19 baht later I arrived at the Chao Praya river and walked to the closest pier to take the ferry. This was where I felt I was back in Bangkok. On the pier were a couple of Thai guys whose eyes lit up with the sight of a farang. They would take me to the island for 60 baht. Now let me tell you, I could see it from the pier and if the water wasn't as dirty as it is, you would swim to it. Moreover, I read there was a ferry for 2 baht. After some discussion with the greedy boatsmen I found the way to the other pier while behind me the words cheap Charlie sounded. Just for your information, people trying to sell you something are not ashamed to call you a cheap Charlie when you don't buy anything and just walk away. Less than ten minutes later and about as many instructions from local shopkeepers later the pier is in sight. Waiting for the ferry to dock, letting some people off and hopping on and of we go to the other side. The only thing missing were two coins on my eyes, ready to cross the Styx.
Arrived on the other side, the ferryman was to be paid, 2 baht per person. For all you Europeans, that is 4 euro cents. The island has 1 main road which follows the outer line and which is wide enough for 2 bikes. The whole road is six kilometers in length and you can choose to walk it or rent a bicycle. Walking is nice, but six km under a scorching sun of 35° C is just plain suicide. 40 baht to rent a bike looks like the wiser solution. Several temples are scattered around the island and I can assure you these are some very nice examples. But the island is known for something completely different. The Mon people have mastered the skill of pottery. It is said the roundest of pots can be found here. There are several bakeries and you can even give it a go yourself. Although this is a very nice place not far from Bangkok, you don't see many tourists here. And I can tell you why, it is not featured or if it is, very briefly, in the known travel guides. As I said before, throw them away!
After the exploration of the island it was time to get back to the hustle and bustle we know as Bangkok. Back to the pier, I grab 2 baht out of my pocket to pay the ferryman, but in true Thai tradition, the price had gone up to 3 baht. You have to get off the island, so the only thing you can do is pay up. Ok, we are talking about 6 euro cents here, but it is all about the principle. Two minutes later we dock back to the mainland and find our way back to the busstop. Apparently the quiet street becomes a buy market place in the evening. Bought some Thai delights and then went searching for the correct bus. Remember we took a blue bus with number 166 to get here. Blue, red, orange and yellow buses pass by and then there is a bus with callsign 166. This is a red bus and you should know, the red buses are free. How lucky can you get. Well, not that lucky, because apparently a bus of a different colour, even with the same number, doesn't go to the same destination. So unknowingly I end up at the terminal of this red bus, and of course this is not where I was supposed to be. Luckily, transportation is widely available in and around the capital and there is a minivan going straight to the Victory Monument. 25 baht and about the same amount of minutes later we arrive back where we started this little adventure. Ko Kret, a small quiet island not too far from Bangkok. Worth a visit. I will be back for sure.

For sure.

Motorcycle madness

And today, traffic as we know it, came to a complete standstill in the capital. An accident occurred on the busiest of busy roads, Sukhumvit. Just past the Asok junction the whole ordeal took place. A big tourist bus filled with school children was turning left from the third lane into Soi 23. A pick-up truck on the second lane, probably too busy to watch the traffic, penetrated the side of the bus. Thus blocking three of the four lanes of this busy road, there shouldn't be any problem I hear you think. Think again. The colleague of the driver of the bus, also driving a bus, wanted to aid his fellow worker and pulled up next to him. No not in the first lane which was free, but in the fourth lane, blocking all traffic. The only ones able to maneuvre between the buses where the motorcycles. Knowing this is one of the busiest junctions in Bangkok, it really messed things up. Eager I watched the evening news to see what they would say about the whole mishap and to my great disappointment, it didn't even make the news. That's how far the congestion has come in this vast city, not even worth mentioning if it all stops.
Maybe worth mentioning is that none of the school children were hurt.
This again proves that the fastest way to cross the city is on the back of a motorcycle taxi. In the beginning I was quite cynical about them. I saw them float through the crazy Bangkok traffic and I thought to myself I hadn't come all this way with a death wish. Sitting on the back of a motorcycle swerving between cars, buses and trucks at 80 km/h. If they hit something you just get catapulted into the air and god knows where you might land. But after observing them for a while, I thought I might give it a try. Let them take me on a straight stretch when there isn't much traffic. See how they drive and how they react. There is a big difference watching them from the sidelines or really being on the back.
These days I take them quite regularly. They really do know how to react in this midtown madness, apparently there is a logic to the whole traffic system. Although I still haven't figured it out. For instance when a car uses his turning signals, it doesn't necessarily mean he is going to make a turn. It can mean a lot of things. But it seems the motorcycle taxis know what they mean. Experience and practice, I guess. Another good reason to call on their services are their low fees. They take me to the supermarket for 15 baht. A taxi has a fare starting at 35 baht and a tuk-tuk charges me 40. Sometimes you just have to take the risk and try something new.

You just have to.

Guide or be guided

My advice for everyone traveling to the land of smiles, throw out your Lonely Planets and Rough Guides. Talk to the locals and look around on the internet and you will find some very nice spots to discover.
One of my favourite places in Bangkok is the Saturday evening vintage market in Lad Prao. I really love that place. Half of the vendors drive oldtimers, be it old Volkswagen vans or American muscle cars, it feels like a nighttime car show at times. Some sell old and used goods, others try to seduce you with new products. This market is best known for its vast amount of secondhand motorcycles being sold every week. Always nice to look at, but buyers beware. Seen this is an evening market and not every corner is well-lit, check out your desired merchandise meticulously before cash changes hands. The exact location of this secondhand paradise is something for you to find out. Finding it is half the fun.
Another spot on my list is the evening market of Huay Kwang. Always nice to linger around in the evening and watch everyone go about his or her daily business. Also famous in the area for its many eateries and street eats. There are always sales going on and even then you can haggle on the price. It's easy to find, just go to the main junction of Huay Kwang, past Ganesh and you can't miss it.
Bangkok is full of nice spots like these where there is always something to see and to do. You won't find these places in your guide books, so no need investing money in a bunch of paper telling you what the next best budget hotel is.

No need.

To eat or not to eat

The setting is farangland. It is 10 o'clock in the evening. You are watching tv in your cosy appartment and suddenly you feel peckish. You don't want to get out al your utensils and start cooking seen the late hour. You think about going outside and grab something quick to eat. But what? You could go to the nearest night shop and get a bag of crisps. But that's too unhealthy. You could go out for chips. But seen you are supposed to go to bed in about an hour or two, this is certainly not the healthiest way to go. The streets are empty. A truck passes you, a truck running publicity for fresh fruit. But where can you find that now? Back to home and fight that hunger in the morning with some breakfast.

The setting is Bangkok. It is 10 o'clock in the evening. You are watching tv in your cosy appartment and suddenly you feel peckish. You don't want to get out al your utensils and start cooking seen the late hour. You think about going outside and grab something quick to eat. But what? Just walk 20 meters and the first stall comes in sight. And this goes on for the next 20 streets. If you ever get that far that is. You can find everything you desire. My favourite is the guy selling fruit. A nice big slice of watermelon for 10 baht or a nice chopped up guava for 15 baht. For you people loving seafood you can find baked fish, dried squid or used-to-be marine animals on a stick. Fried duck or noodles with pork are also on the menu of the streets. This all goes on until about 2 in the morning, and if you are lucky to live closeby a market, you might find your favourite dish until 4 or 5 in the morning. And did you miss it, or they are out of ingredients, just come back the next day when it all repeats itself.
Luckily you actually don't even need to know Thai to order all of this, just point and smile.

Just smile.

Happy 2553

Sawadee pi mai. Happy new year. This is it, we have entered 2010 or to state it locally, 2553. The year of the tiger is upon us. Curious what it will bring. Joy and happiness? Or more crises and political insecurity? Thailand has no idea what it is in for. What will happen with Mr. T? Will he be the bigger man and come back to face his jail sentence? Or will he keep stirring up the masses from outside Thailand?
To be honest, I can't be bothered. This is a Thai fight and as with any Thai fight, the best advice is to stay out of it. Stay at the same course as the mainstream Thai, go to work, earn some money and don't care about the war of the coloured shirts.

Celebrating new year in Thailand felt a little bit strange. I think mainly beacause this is not their celebration. The Thai new year, called Songkran, is celebrated in April, around our Easter. This new year is mainly one of commerce. Big setups, superstars, speeches and lots of stalls to emphasise the big countdown. After this bliss moment of fireworks everything returns to normal. For Thai people this was a day like any other day. Of course this being Bangkok there were parties everywhere. But then again, this being Bangkok, you can party here every day of the year. As someone told me, what is so special about it, every day is a new day, you don't go out and celebrate every first day of a new month. I think they are right. Actually it is just another day. Yes, you throw out your old calendar and put up a new one, but what else changes. Nothing. Thai people also celebrate Chinese new year, I don't know how, but judging by the western new year, it will be a day like any other day. Songkran on the other hand is where the real party starts. Five days of fun in the sun. Cavorting until the wee hours. If you want to know more about Songkran, I bet you know how to use google.

So what are my resolutions for this year?
Try to see a bit more of this wonderful country and try to stay alive. I think I will stick to those ones. Don't make fake promises you know you won't keep.

Don't.